Tag Archives: kayak 50

State 30 of 50: Maryland – Antietam Creek

Of battles and rivers
Date Paddled: November 17, 2017
Nearest City: Harper’s Ferrry
Put-In: Boonesboro – Antietam Canoe and Kayak
Take-Out: Route 38 Bridge
Duration: 4.5 hours
River Miles: 8.25
Shuttle: Gary from Antietam Canoe and Kayak, 12 miles
Weather: Sunny 48
Difficulty: quickwater, class I-II
Cfs: 180

The Antietam Creek played a significant role in the Civil War where Major General George McClellan launched attacks on General Robert E. Lee from defensive positions behind the creek. With 22,717 dead, wounded, or missing this was the bloodiest battle of the Civil War. McClellan was relieved of his command and many speculate that the war would have been won with more decisive leadership.

Fortunately, thoughts of battles past were not in our heads as we headed out from Antietam Canoe and Kayak. We had spent some wonderful time exploring the Americana and antiquities in the old power generating structure with Gary, our gracious host and shuttle driver. He regaled us with stories of days when this was a hub of electrical production, the solid wooden beams and floor witness to the weight of both equipment and responsibility.DSCN6942The river was flowing at its near low, but still at a surprising rate for only 180 cfs. Sycamores of all shapes filled the shores in true bottom-land tradition.

Sycamores
Sycamores

Birds were still very much in evidence with ducks, geese, herons, kingfisher, pilated woodpeckers, and songbirds.

Beautiful, dark red-tailed hawk
Red-tailed hawk

One of my great pleasures while paddling is finding old railway or road bridges. The quality of these old structures is a real testimony to the care with which they were built. My dad did all the stonework on our house, while instilling a love of stone and appreciation for the difficulties of working with such a substantial  material.  
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DSCN7674Bridges also fire my imagination – What places did it connect? Who built it? What were the people day-dreaming about as they crossed the river? Perhaps the deer we saw had similar thoughts as we scooted past.

Curious deer
Curious deer

Paddlers get hungry. In the warmer weather, we’ll often find someplace to stretch our legs for lunch or we’ll eat moored someplace pleasant, other times like on the Antietam, we eat on-the-wing.

Today's menu- cheese and crackers
Today’s menu- cheese and crackers

This adventure to kayak Delaware and Maryland came on the heels of my breast cancer reconstructive surgery and by mile six or so, I was up to 14.5 miles with the previous Broad River paddle. I started fading with the sun as it hid behind the ridge and the temperature dropped. I was getting a bit panicky thinking of the next couple of miles. While I saw the need to keep warm with paddling, one of the surgery sites was complaining.

After a while of trying to tough it out, I popped some Ibuprofens and resigned myself to being towed and clipping/unclipping through the rapids- a tedious process. While no one would fault me for being towed under the circumstances, it’s still a humiliation! Peter cheerfully helped me out.
Not even exhaustion, cold or humiliation could dampen my appreciation of the Antietam Bridge (in the park by the same name).

Note the bungee with clip ends. We always bring these along  for this and portaging/lining purposes.
Note the bungee with clip ends. We always bring these along for this purpose as well as for portaging/lining.

Since our blog focuses on paddling, I won’t elaborate on Harper’s Ferry – all the history, restored village, great restaurants in historical buildings, the Potomac River and the Appalachian Trail Headquarters. All I’ll say is – go there – paddle and enjoy!

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State 27 of 50: New Jersey – Wallkill River NWR

A surprisingly beautiful flyway in New Jersey
Date Paddled: June 2, 2017
Nearest City: Sussex
Put-In:  Glenwood Road
Take-Out: Bassett’s Bridge
Duration: 3.5
River Miles: ~7
Shuttle: ~7 on country roads
Weather: 65 sunny becoming partly cloudy, breezy
Difficulty: flatwater, quickwater, minor riffles
Cfs: not available, medium-high water

The Walkill is one of few National Wildlife Refuges in the northeast. It’s importance is to migratory birds as well as more stationary threatened  species like the bog turtle. We were treated to the always welcome sight of a duckling skedaddling across the water – a sure sign of the transition from spring to summer:Along with the ducklings, three bald eagles as well as hawks and kingfishers were trolling for a tasty lunch. Finches, cardinals, tree swallows, warblers, and red-winged blackbirds among others, were part of the aural and visual choir.

The Walkill River reveals a number of faces based on different color schemes. The variety of vegetation, depth of the water, and stream-bed composition play a roll.

green
green
blue
blue
brown
brown
orange
orange

I’ve paddled the Walkill perhaps ten or twelve times as it’s not too far from home. Most of the year, it’s filled with birds but especially in the early spring when huge flocks of geese and ducks use this area to rest and replenish. Always present are the great blue herons who have a rookery of 25-30 active nests. I’ve never encountered any other paddlers and seen only the occasional fisherman at the take out. When one thinks of New Jersey, it tends to be in derogatory terms, but the Walkill easily dispenses the images of smelly oil refineries and congested toll-filled roads.

Most of the river corridor is lined with mature silver maples. A lovely site any time, but especially as the wind reveals the leaves silvery side:It’s fascinating to watching the wind combing through the fresh leaves on it’s way upstream – perhaps heading all the way up the Hudson to the Adirondacks…..

State 12 of 50: Massachusetts: Deerfield River

Dam release paddle with good friends on gray day
Date Paddled: 10/1/16
Nearest City: Charlemont
Put-In: Zoar Gap picnic area
Take-Out: The Great Outdoors Outfitter, Charlemont
Duration: 4 hours
River Miles: 6
Shuttle: two cars, easy hitchhiking if needed
Weather: overcast
Difficulty: quickwater, class I and II
Cfs: 820

In a case of frustration with time and place, Peter and I, and our good friends Christian and Jen, ended up on the Deerfield River later than we had hoped. We had our sights set on the upper Deerfield from Fife Dam to the Zoar Gap picnic area, but, for reasons unknown, the “gods of the water” i.e. Brookfield Hydro, decided to curtail their commitment to 800 cfs for 5 hours on Saturday to a mere 3 hours. This effectively left us high and dry on the upper portion, but still in the game for the lower. The upper portion has more and jazzier rapids and somewhat nicer views, but the lower is commendable.
This river is a favorite with paddlers who come from far and wide, as flows here are regulated making water flows reliable when other rivers are low and desolate. Upper parts of the Deerfield are generally more challenging, with the class III – V Zoar Gap being the biggest rapid. Here the river narrows down to a chute through a boulder-strewn area.

zoar-gap

Our day was misty and overcast with temperatures in the low 60’s. We put in at the picnic area near Zoar Gap.   A bit frazzled with all the hurry, we soon settled in.dscn3396We enjoyed some nice class I and II rapids, interspersed with quickwater and very occasional flat water. The mist was magical and mysterious with fall colors just beginning to shine. The Deerfield runs through this sparely populated part of the northern Berkshires after traversing a number of state forests on its western side and the vast Green Mountains of Vermont to the north.   Bear, fisher, and porcupines freely inhabit the surrounding area – the true beginning of the northern forest. dscn3392One of the benefits of less rapids is that we had more time to fish, talk, watch the mist, and relax.dscn3418

dscn3391The Deerfield, and the nearby Mohawk Trail State Park, are both very special places.  Being born a gypsy at heart, I find it very strange that I’m always sad to leave this beautiful place. It seems like home in a way that I still don’t understand, even after 10 years of making pilgrimages. I suspect that hiking on The Mohawk Trail, used by Native peoples for eons, may have something to do with it. The Trail along the ridge line has been compressed over time, so that it is inches below the surrounding forest. During a bear tracking class, we learned of something quite similar with bear. In their case, it’s a ceremonial trail that involves placing their feet in the same spots as their ancestors. Scientists don’t understand the reasons for this behavior, but perhaps like us, the connections that are made over time and place work themselves into the very soil and soul.dscn3416

State 11 of 50: Illinois: Vermilion River

Surprisingly fun river, Diana learns a lesson
Date Paddled: 9/24/16
Nearest City: Oglesby
Put-In: Vermilion Outfitter
Take-Out: Bridge in Oglesby Route 23
Duration: 3.75
River Miles: 7.7
Shuttle: Dave from Cozy Corner Campground
                    Bike shuttle would be 5.5 miles
Weather: 73 overcast until mid-afternoon then partly sunny
Difficulty: flat and quickwater with class I and II, one class IV
Cfs: 1020

There are times when even the most experienced kayaker, hiker, climber, etc. make some pretty elementary mistakes. The Vermilion River paddle reminded me that scouting rapids is a pretty good idea, especially when someone has died in that spot.

Paddling in Illinois wasn’t exactly high on my list of “I can’t wait!” The Illinois Vermilion was juxtaposed in my mind to the Kootenay National Park, Canadian Vermilion – an unfortunate comparison.

Kootenay National Park                    Illinois                      

That being said, the Illinois Vermilion surprised us with its feeling of remoteness,  interesting cliff and rock formations, and excitement (especially for my unexpected swim). Sometimes having low expectations really works out well.

The day was overcast and quiet in the low 70’s and the water was about the same temperature.  In short order we spotted tall block banded cliffs, raising our spirits as I mused on the almost palatable way that eons are represented on rocky cliff faces.

dscn3321After this banded cliff area, we were swept into a tight meander and surprised by an eroded cliff formation of newer rock very different in character. It dwarfed Peter as he ventured in for a closer look.dscn3330We saw a variety of plant life with many of the common eastern plants making us feel like we were really on our home turf again. Asters were blooming everywhere in whites and purples. Three bald eagles, four great blue herons, a kingfisher, and a variety of sparrows made there presence known. We saw no other people on the river although we understand it’s very popular in the summer with few outfitters providing services.

The water was mostly quick with some class I and II rapids.  We had been forewarned about a possible carry around a class IV rapid where part of the cliff had fallen into the river making it boulder-y and dangerous. After scouting, we decided to line the boats meaning

that we secured and guided them through the rapid from shore. This is traditionally done with a rope, but we find bungee cords to be more successful. It was a rather lengthy process, but happily both kayaks made it through with no mishaps except for taking on a bit of water.

Diana's kayak made ready to go through the rapid.
Diana’s kayak made ready to go through the rapid.
Peter beginning the lining process.
Peter beginning the lining process.
Moving the kayak from "shore."
Moving the kayak from “shore.” Note Peter’s kayak by the distant rock.

The next section of the river was filled with larger boulders making the paddling more interesting. When the sun came out we were really appreciative and happy that we had overcome our initial prejudices against this lesser Vermilion.

As we neared the end of our paddle, an old cement dam came into view by a large factory. It was a rather abrupt reintroduction into society as we had seen no other signs of civilization. Someone had perished on this old dam, after which the company made it safer and added signage. We had also spoken to a local who assured us that the line was to stay way over to the right and then we’d be met with a wave train once we were over the dam, a class II rapid, but nothing difficult.  I foolishly decided that it would be fine to run without scouting. After all, I got it – stay to the right.

As I neared the rapid, I immediately realized that I wasn’t right enough! In front of me was a huge boulder that was mostly submerged and lodged up against the dam. I also immediately realized that I would hit the boulder and soon be swimming – too late to do anything but “go with the flow”!

And swim I did! Actually it was more like being in a butter churn as I hit my head and got turned around. I was momentarily caught in the hydraulic  spinning at the bottom of the dam…long enough to think, “Oh, this is how people get stuck and die.” Then I was spit out and on my way downstream clutching my paddle and kayak with its flotation loose and various pieces of gear that were thankfully coming along for the ride.

Sorry to say I don’t have any pictures, I was too busy to take any. I do have this one of my kayak after I righted it and swam it to shore.dscn3381

And here’s that last look back;

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thankful that I’m here to tell the tale!